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- Title
Physicochemical Properties of Textured Hair.
- Authors
MCMULLEN, ROGER L.; GILLECE, TIMOTHY; SCHIESS, TYLER
- Abstract
In this study, we investigated differences in the various properties of textured hair as compared to straight hair. As representative hair types from both ends of the spectrum, we investigated the morphological and ultrafine structural characteristics of African and Caucasian hair. We took a profound look at African hair using field emission scanning electron microscopy (FESEM), examining the exterior of the fiber as well as its interior structure by analyzing thin cross-sections of hair. We found that it has unique morphology in both the exterior and interior of the fiber. Some key features include the fiber morphology at a point of curvature, concavity in the major axis, large distribution of melanin granules, and fibrillar structures (keratins) heavily coated with biological material (presumably lipids). We further examined the lipid characteristics of African and Caucasian hair using Fourier transform infrared imaging to map the lipid distribution within the cross-section of hair. Using dynamic vapor sorption, we observed the effect of lipid distribution in African hair and its influence on water management properties. Finally, tensile strength data (break stress, percentage extension at break, etc.) agreed with data previously published in the literature. Expanding on this theme, we monitored the fracture patterns of fibers extended to break using FESEM. Overall, African hair was found to exhibit various types of fracture patterns, especially at the point of curvature of the fiber. The structures of the broken fibrillar proteins (intermediate filaments) were significantly longer in Caucasian hair than in African hair.
- Subjects
HAIR conditioners; FIELD emission electron microscopy; HAIR; CYTOPLASMIC filaments; INFRARED imaging
- Publication
Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2021, Vol 72, p711
- ISSN
1525-7886
- Publication type
Article